It is not difficult to work out why Essaouira is called the ‘Windy City’ even when there is little more than a breeze, it gusts through the streets, market places and along the beach. Its touch caresses the sand and reaches every hidden space within the town.
Bringing the catch home
“merely sold off the pavement in the fishing port”
That it is described as a city is a little more difficult to comprehend. Despite the numerous exclusive hotels, riads, bars and restaurants it still appears to be an ‘overgrown’ fishing village. It is this feeling of authenticity absent from some other Moroccan cities which appeals to me.
I enjoyed several hours at the docks of the harbour watching the fishing boats arriving with their catch and unloading it onto the wharf. Some of the fish makes its way to the nearby market but much of it is merely sold off the pavement in the fishing port.
Returning home
The small boats are used for long-lining, all coloured blue they make a striking sight when docked together. They use fishing lines which are several kilometres in length and catch the bigger fish such as red tuna, rays, bass and sharks such as blues.
There are larger boats; trawlers which drag nets aimed at catching the smaller fish such as sardines, mackerel and shrimp. All are bought and sold along the quay and in the fishmarket along with the live lobster and spider crabs caught in traps. The selection of fish on display in front of individual ‘fishmongers’ is quite startling and a little sad, especially the obviously juvenile blue sharks which are still probably the prize catch for the fishermen.
Repairing the nets
It is a little surprising that the harbour air is not filled with the stench of fish, in fact the market area is much more pungent. Fishermen tend their stalls gutting and filleting their catch whilst bartering the best price with the restaurateurs of the city. It seems likely that it pays to buy in bulk and there are is almost certainly some collaboration where some restaurants or streetfood sellers guarantee to buy the entire catch of certain fishermen.
Wharfside fish merchant
Once the days catch has been sold with maybe enough being retained for dinner, preparations for the next fishing expedition take place. Rough hands weathered by the sun, wind and sea spray work on nets, often in teams , repairing any holes. Other fishermen work on the trawlers cleaning decks and still more lay out long lines along the wharf ensuring hooks and fishing lines are undamaged and ready for action.
Seafood on display
Tourists mingle with those working in the port and parents looking for something to feed their family that day. The docks are filled with those that make their living from the sea, character filled faces etched from a life spent in the glare of the sun and the unforgiving power of the ocean lean against boats and discuss best practice.
“avoiding their less sociable ‘shares’ is one of the hazards of the port
Seagulls fill the sky with aerial warfare, avian fighter pilots performing ‘dogfights’ in search of the best scraps. The air is filled with their piercing, high-pitched squawks, if they cannot wrestle anything from their adversaries then possibly scare tactics is another option.
Occasionally the odd over aggressive bird may ‘divebomb’ an unsuspecting two legged adversary and avoiding their less sociable ‘shares’ is one of the hazards of the port.
Although the blue which is prevalent throughout the medina is only visible on the long-lining boats it is still an attractive harbour. It is protected from the elements by the fortified ramparts and a long breakwater. Built for practical and historical defence from the ocean and marauding pirates of foreign enemies they also add charisma to the port.
Strolling away from the wharf towards the city the nearby streetfood sellers can be found, providing yet further choice of fish. The displays are dazzling and the hawkers responsible for attracting customers will happil poke the crustaceans into displaying their freshness.
Wharfside fish market
If feeling a little hungry, merely select a fish and it will be prepared and cooked to order. How is that for bespoke cuisine?
After enjoying a meal of the freshest fish possible, perhaps with some rice or salad and a local wine there is plenty of time to watch the everyday comings and goings of the city. It is easy to imagine little has changed here, in truth little has, the fishermen still depart the port early each day, although now they use motorised engines rather than the power of the ever present wind.
Fish buyers and sellers
Fully satiated and yet only half the day has gone, it’s time to head into the narrow backstreets of the medina but that’s a whole new adventure.
The reserve fleet maybe?
This brought back some great memories. Essaouira was my favourite place in Morocco, not just because I love fish but I loved the rustic vibe and being near the sea. The cats there are also gorgeous. I’m not usually a cat fan but seeing these fat guys lazing in the sunshine with a belly full of fish kept me entertained for days!
Monica recently posted..A weekend in Ostende, Belgium
I absolutely loved Essaouira. Could definitely stay there longer.
Talon recently posted..Unexpected challenges of the nomadic lifestyle
Me too Talon but then love much of Morocco need to visit the true blue city next.
I love Essaouira. I could’ve just about spent a day walking around and looking at what the fishing boats brought in! It’s a quirky little place, too. The town is great for a wander.
Si recently posted..What is time to a backpacker?
I love Essaouira too, great wandering around the fishing port and the medina, can’t wait to return.
Nice shots. Looks like a pretty untouristic place. Would love to get to Morocco one of these days.
So much BLUE! love it
thanks for this wonderful and amazing post. I really love it. Hopefully I can read again your next article writing.
Really glad you enjoyed it Carol, I hope you enjoy the next one as much.
I am not a great fan of cities Ava, but it’s easy to make an exception for Barcelona, such a wonderful city.
I appreciate a look at the real life, work a day fisherman. Their job is a tough one and I am sure it’s not easy getting up and going out to get their catch each day. I know some of the fish, sharks, crabs, etc are prized because of their value. I do like the idea of getting fresh fish right there. I visited a small fishing village like this in Portugal. It’s not a lifestyle that I would want but I appreciate what they do.
I agree totally Jeremy it is not an easy life and especially in the current climate of reducing stocks of fish worldwide, it often seems idyllic but taking a closer look and the truths of it are more evident than they first appear.
Can’t wait to go. The seafood pic is amazing -the diversity and the colors. Excellent work!
You will love it, have a great time
Hi Ian, thanks for sharing your sights and thoughts on Essouira. I liked it so much a couple of years ago that I’m going back, but this time I take some friends to show them how lovely, charming, colourful this place is. Already fowarded them your post to be honest!
That’s great Liz I’m sure you’ll have a great time with friends, hope to get there myself one day soon and hopefully spend a little while longer there next time.
I miss Essaouira. Def one of my favorite Moroccan cities. Your photos portrayed the charm I remember so well
I hear you Maria loved it there, wish I could have stayed longer
Great shots, they capture the vibrancy of colour and bustle perfectly.
Alas, I didn’t manage to enjoy life at the harbour without receiving a ‘present’ from the seagull squadrons when I visited
Sorry to hear that Jack, but those squadrons can be pinpoint accurate
I really enjoyed these pics! So colorful!
Thank you Terry
I traveled throughout Morocco close to 20 years ago and I still clearly remember the charm of Essaouira. And the wind…
As you mention in your writing, I liked its authenticity, the colors and the smell.
I’ve been wondering sometimes how much it had changed over the last years. Apparently, not that much. Glad about that
It became one of my own favourite places in Morocco Simon, so pleased I had a chance to check it out for myself.